The Influence of Black Culture On Western Fashion Trends
Mar 24, 2022
In light of the Black Lives Matter protests sparked in summer of 2020, a call for recognition and diversity has emerged in the world of fashion. Black and African culture have always been a great source of inspiration for Western designers throughout the ages, but still the black community remains underrepresented, and often uncredited for its huge contribution to the fashion industry.
Many trends that characterised the last century and still lasts today, were first born in the black community and then popularised among the mainstream media and public. Let’s discover the major ones:
Nails as a form of art
Notably, Acrylic nails were first worn by African-American model Donyale Luna, who wore them on the cover of Twen magazine in 1966. In the ‘70s they became sensational in salons and started to be associated with disco music stars such as Donna Summer and Diana Ross. During the 90s, acrylic nails were popularised by the rise of R&B and hip-hop music artists like Missy Elliot and Lil Kim, with her ‘money manicure’ as the first example of nail art being displayed at the Museum of Modern Arts (designed by Bernadette Thompson).Since that time, the concept of ‘nail art’ started rising and became prominent as we know it today.
Logomania
Logomania refers to the printing of logos all-over a piece of clothing or accessory. Its origin is in Dapper Dan’s Harlem boutique in the 80s. He would take famous designers’ logos and customise leather jackets and more, using them in ways never thought of. He was forced to shut off his business in 1992, due to legal action from these brands. Three decades later, logomania is not only accepted, but also welcomed and labeled as innovative. In 2018, Gucci released a jacket that hinted too much at Dan’s work, without crediting him. After being attacked on social media and apologising to him, they started a collaboration that is still ongoing.
Bucket Hat
Originally designed as a tool to protect fishermen’s necks, the bucket hat has become a ladies’ accessory in the 60s, in a stiffer version and more elegant style. However it was the rapper Big Bank Hank who made it popular, by wearing it in a TV show in 1979, followed by Run DMC, LL Cool J and Jay Z. The bucket hat has made a strong comeback in 2020, and is now designed by all the haute couture brands, like Prada and Fendi.
Hoop Earrings
This form of jewelry dates back to the Nubia civilization, that lived in what now is Sudan, worn by Egyptian royalty as a fashion accessory. Hoop earrings are recognized as one of the symbols of Black and Latinx culture; they became popular thanks to Nina Simone and Angela Davies in the 60s. In those years, the black power movement was in its full bloom and black women of culture wore them to embrace an Afrocentric way of dressing. Ever since, this piece was adopted by other icons such as Madonna and Cher, and are now reinvented and reimagined by designers on the daily.
Sneakers
We have to thank the rap and hip-hop scene once again for this trend. Sneakers existed since the invention of rubber, but they were reserved for sports and had nothing to do with fashion. They started gaining widespread attention in the 80s, when rappers like Run-DMC and Grandmaster Flash wore them, existing as part of a sportswear-predicated aesthetic born out of black communities and artists, largely in east coast American cities.
This legacy continues even now, with many collaborations with rap stars like Jay-Z and Kanye West. The Black culture continues to contribute to industry trends in the Fashion world in this present age and would continue its impact in the next generation. Further promoting the historical and cultural importance of black culture and talent and its monumental influence in fashion today must be acknowledged.